vintages 1982–1993
Notes from October 2008 Tasting (unless otherwise noted)
1982DRINKShowing its age. Port, light cherry, dried tangerine, salted nuts, sesame and soy, meat stew, cigar box, cloves. Spiced wine, cognac-like profile. Delicate, with dry, dusty tannins. Some lingering fullness on the palate. Has aged beautifully over many years but is a bit faded at this showing.
1983DRINKResilient color. Complex and heady, yet soft. Cherry candy, sea salt, bouillon, dried rosemary, cheese puffs, stewed tomatoes, and wet stones. Retains a touch of the savory, but somewhat dried and angular. Pair with cheese.
1984DRINKPretty cherry color. Subdued, with scents of leaves, wood smoke, cherry cola, hay, cheese rind, and sour cream. Light and lean, though well-integrated with nice, long texture. A complete wine and a fine example of an older Cabernet.
1985DRINKSherry, soy, mushroom, meat and barbeque aromas. Savory and almost salty, and quite aged. However, some softness and prettiness remain, and we felt this vintage could be enjoyed with a softer cheese that would not overwhelm its earthier characters.
1986DRINKPretty and fruity. Plummy, jammy aromas interlaced with mint, licorice, clove, cola, brush, and brambles. Vibrant, long texture, well-integrated and seamless. Complete from start to finish. Perfectly answers the question “Why age a Cabernet?”
1987DRINKLively, youthful and rich. Baked spices, peppermint, nutmeg, marmalade, tomato paste, smoke, rose petal, tea, and a whisp of pineapple. The entry is supple, the wine is well-structured with a substantial fruit core. Dense, graceful, delicious.
1988DRINKMature, robust and somewhat earthy. Dried bay and tea leaves, leather, menthol, smoke, forest floor, minerals, but also some cloves and spice, candied apple, and brown sugar. Rolling, dark flavors. Nice balance. Good follow-through to the warm, attractive palate. We decided this would be a great match with Peking duck.
1989DRINKShowing more age this year than last. Port, damp tobacco, tomato, orange, dried fig, cola, sage, sandalwood, bouillon. Nice entry; finishes with drier tannins. Deserves to be paired with a delicious cheese.
1990DRINKSea salt, mineral powder, ash, teriyaki, stew, olive, cedar and cigar box offset by crushed currant and pomegranate, meringue, lemon cheesecake, chocolate dust, and cinnamon. On the earthy side, but nice, with decent structure and enveloping tannins. Even a hint of juiciness. Showed nicely.
1991DRINKA delicious medley of aromas and flavors. Asian spice, crushed raspberries, rose petals, and a wonderful peach note swirled with mocha, black pepper, ash, and cedar. Warm, with great balance and good structure. Slightly drying, yet attractive tannins. Has held up admirably.
1992DRINKBeautiful color. Savory, brawny, mouth filling. A ripe fruit core enhanced by scents of mocha, marshmallow, graham cracker, clove, pepper, soy, brine, tobacco, and forest floor. Firm tannins and structure, good concentration. Showed very well.
1993DRINK(Notes from November 2009 Tasting) Showing its age today. A sweet entry, with some dusty, evolved ripe fruit—pretty on the palate. Soy overtones, with a medley of earth, tobacco, beef bouillon, graphite, salt, five-spice, vanilla bean, cheese rind, and walnut underneath. Tannins are fully evolved. Jon Bonné commented, “This is where an old claret goes.” Made Beth think of “an old English manor library with leather furniture.” Perhaps best enjoyed in such a room, with a lovely cheese pairing.
