vintages 1994–2004
1994DRINK/HOLDWe felt that this vintage was slightly closed, but all agreed that it was very pretty, and will open up nicely again in the future (thus, we changed last year’s drink verdict to drink/hold). Aspects of raspberry and cherry liqueur combine with aromas of soy, espresso, cedar, vanilla, orange peel, licorice, and mint to yield a lovely mélange of freshness balanced with slightly aged characteristics and a lovely dusty quality. The palate follows the nose accurately. Palpable acidity bodes well for more life ahead.
1995HOLDWalking that delicate tightrope between young and older, this wine demonstrated a somewhat elusive, mysterious nose. Floral and rose petal aromas dominated, with wisps of potpourri, black tea, cranberry, cola, anise, and smoke. Fine depth, balance, and acidity portend more good things to come from this vintage.
1996DRINK/HOLDThis somewhat underrated vintage has rounded a corner and become awfully inviting. We uncovered ripe strawberry and blackberry notes, plus cookie dough, graham cracker, maple, cream cheese, and a hint of hibiscus. The sweet fruit characters are balanced by wonderful acidity and delicacy, with integrated tannins and a dash of spice. Linda summed this wine up perfectly, “Charming!”
1997DRINK/HOLDA bowlful of berries—fresh and grapey, in spite of its age. Cocoa, mocha, graphite, malted milk balls, cherry syrup, soy sauce. This vintage is showing the brashness of youth, but also a hint of maturity. A very complete wine—all of its aspects seem to have become comfortable with one another. That being said, we think this wine still has some time left to shine.
1998DRINK/HOLDMysterious, intriguing, exotic. Broad shouldered, yet elegant. Sandalwood, violets, cola, minerals, brambles, a pleasant leafiness, fresh cut alfalfa, sage, and a hint of salt. A wonderful combination of herbal and fruit characters. Yummy, mouthcoating, rich and supple. Demonstrates classic St. Helena Cabernet characters of spice and elegance. We believe this wine is worthy of further aging.
1999DRINK/HOLDBeth captured this wine perfectly: big, pretty, deep and powerful. Tightly wound, with a lot of depth. Ripe fruit, wild blackberries, lovely oak, nutmeg, mocha, cinnamon, chocolate-banana cream pie, custard. Lovely balance. This has always been one of Rosemary’s favorite vintages, and it is showing beautifully. Tempting to drink now because it is juicy and sappy, heavy like silk. Try a bottle and hold the rest. Lots of future potential.
2000DRINK/HOLDGreat, rich, inky, youthful color. Very expressive, with a cornucopia of aromas and flavors. Some pretty blackberry, and sweet, prevalent oak. Lots of black pepper—also some herbal notes, and elements of tar, teriyaki, tobacco, straw, leather, smoke, and mint. Our impressions were very similar to last year’s—the wine remains opulent, showy, distinctive. A Francophile’s delight, and a substantial wine.
2001HOLDDark color and a lovely, complex nose. Youthful and big, showing black and blue fruit, tar, caramel, plum, chocolate, Asian spice, and a touch of sea salt. Sweet, fruity, and extracted. A beautiful, powerful vintage with tons of promise. Linda said “A crime to drink now!” This is a keeper, with a wonderful mélange of ingredients and the structure to age.
2002HOLDThis showstopper seems to have drawn in a bit. Beth called it serious and contemplative—Rodin’s, The Thinker. Deep, layered, and complex. Black cherry, cassis, tar, violet liqueur, anise seed, and a hint of fig. The ripe aspect has toned down a bit, and we suspect this wine has entered a sleeper faze, but we know it will re-emerge as bold and beautiful as ever—and we cannot wait until it does!
2003DRINK/HOLDVery sweet and showy, just one step beyond the baby-fat stage. A bowl full of berries, red cherries, malted milk balls, tea leaves, crème brûlée, flower nectar, sweet vanilla, graham crackers, toffee, chocolate, and cookie dough. “Yum” was a primary descriptor. Lingering, with good acid and weight, polished tannins, wonderful viscosity, and a long finish. Although we felt favorably disposed to this vintage last year, it seems to have benefited from additional time in the bottle.
2004TRY/HOLDWow, just a knockout, though very young and a tiny bit disjointed. Adjectives such as warm cookie dough, butterscotch pudding, rum-soaked raisins, caramel apples, Snickers bars, vanilla, coconut, and luscious syrup, poured out in everyone’s notes. But the overriding feeling was also: too young to drink. Keep this showy, flashy teenager in her room—she may seem ready for the prom, but she isn’t quite! A show-stopper, though, you’d like to let her go!
